[naples naples bo baples]

It’s all over the place. Everyone says it. Naples is the worst. I believed them. Angie and I spent as little time in Naples as we could…which was approximately 12 hours.

The directions to our BnB said it was only a 10 minute walk from the train station…but it was confusing so naturally we walked around with our heavy backpacks and belongings …in the most ghetto part of Naples. Of course. With my luck. And my sense of direction…It’s a wonder Angie stuck with me this far.

After about 30 minutes of walking around and struggling to ask for directions, we decided to take a taxi. He said it would be 15E. Fine. Whatever. Just get us off the streets. “Saint Elmo Bed & Breakfast per favore,” I said, in my best Italian, and showed the taxi driver the address.

We’re driving up and around and through alleyways. 10 minute walk? No way. After a 10 minute drive, the taxi driver arrived at the top of the hill, next to a castle.

Angie and I looked at each other. This can’t be right.

“Saint Elmo?” we asked.
He said something about Castello Saint Elmo.
“Uhhh…nonono. Bed and Breakfast? Hotel?”
I showed him the address again.
“Ahhhh, B and B! Si si si.”

And then he drove us in what I hoped would be the right direction.

Another 15 minutes later, we arrive at the BnB. We climbed 4 flights of stairs and tried to talk to our host in broken Italian. We told her we took a taxi for 15E and she likewise explained that it should only be 6E in this taxi zone. Awesome. We collapsed onto our bed. Naples wasn’t impressing us so far.

Angie had a killer migraine so I volunteered to venture out of the gated apartment complex to fetch us something to eat for dinner. I clutched my ILA personal security alarm the entire walk, ready to pull the trigger [it’s not a gun, don’t worry!] if the occasion arose. [Thankfully not…but I did get some creepy stares]

I made it back to the apartment safely and made Angie our usual dinner of prosciutto and bread with olive oil and vinegar. We don’t need much. We did what BnBs are made for; we slept and we broke fast and we left. Our host was very nice and actually did our laundry and arranged for a taxi to take us to the train station for our 6am train the next morning. But the language barrier made it tough to connect otherwise. Which was a shame, because she seemed pretty neat.

Our supposed 6E taxi ride to the train station [according to our host] ended up being 10E…but we were too tired to try to argue with the taxi driver and gave him our money. We wanted to leave Naples.

And so we did. We took the first train to Roma! Finally headed back up to northern Italy.

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